6 August 2018. Atlin BC

6 August 2018. Warm Springs, Atlin BC

We took a lazy morning at the RV Park this morning.  They had limited internet, and it only turned on from 8-10 in the morning.  So we woke up and watched the nearby pilot get his plane ready for the day (on the lake) as we read the morning mail.  We strolled over to the “Slough” and caught site of two beavers who were busy blocking the drainage area.  We had already walked the town, so we decided to explore some of the other opportunities to camp nearby.

We watched this guy get his oil warmed up. Turned everything on, ran for a bit, the off again. So he’s ready in case he’s needed…
Beaver trying to block the drainage. This makes beavers number 4 and 5 for the trip

In British Columbia, they have areas that they call Recreation Sites.  These are usually small sites in forest-y or lake-y areas that are set up for just a few people to camp in.  These sites are usually “user maintained” – which means you are supposed to pick up after yourself, and not to expect any ranger coming by to get you out of a jam.  They are also low or no cost.  The ones we looked at today were all free to camp at. They did have outhouses and bear proof garbage cans. We explored three of these sites near Atlin.  The first was on small Palmer lake with two sites.  Both sites were being used. Probably a good fishing lake…  The second was at Warm Bay on the shore of Atlin Lake.  It had five sites and a boat ramp.  Two sites were being used when we stopped by.  The third was where they called the Grotto – three sites in a forest surrounded by a stream. No one was there.  But since we had hopes for going Kayaking – we decided to try the Warm Bay sites.

Sign for Recreation Site
The campsite at Warm Bay
View from the campsite at Warm Bay
We actually got brave and send the Drone over the water to do a selfie at this campsite. The drone came back to land!

We set up right next to the Lake, a beautiful spot. However, the weather was coming in and Atlin is a HUGE lake – the waves made it look unpleasant for kayaking… So we took some short hikes and relaxed.  The rain came in and we started catching up on blog posts – although we couldn’t post anything without cell service…  There was a “warm springs” within walking distance, but the water wasn’t quite up to bath temperature, according to the folks sitting in it… so we passed on that opportunity.

5 August 2018. Atlin BC

5 August 2018. Road to Atlin B.C.

We left Skagway and were looking forward to retracing that scenic drive.

We made a quick stop at an overlook of town to do a last e-mail download, as we’d be leaving Alaska and staying in Canada for the next couple of weeks.

Finally captured this view as we headed out of Dyea.
Blue sky as we stopped at the cell service area on the way out of Skagway

Canada cell phone plans suck if you’re from the US.  Ours does at least.  We’re with AT&T, and our plan charges you $10 per 24 hour period the instant your phone pings a Canadian cell tower.  At that point you have unlimited talk, text, and data for those 24 hours.  So the minute we approach the Canadian border, our phones go into airplane mode and stay there.  We look for locations that have free wifi.  If we’re staying in an RV park instead of a campground, they usually have wifi, but we’ve run into several cases where you only get an hour or two per day.  Larger towns that have Visitor’s Centers will usually have wifi.  Larger towns with name brand retailers (think McDonalds) will have wifi.  But our route has been planned to avoid the big towns and stay in campgrounds as much as possible.  This is why the Blog updates come in groups, and why it can be several days before we respond to texts and e-mails.

The road out of Skagway is mostly uphill for the first 30 miles, and despite seeing three cruise ships in port, we were lucky and avoided getting stuck behind any tour busses.  The guy at the border crossing was a bit of a PIA.  Hey, I just don’t know exactly where I’m headed in your wonderful country, it depends on whether Canadian Ford mechanics are any good, and I’m retired damn it.  Those guys have no sense of humor.

Border crossing sign. Neither customs place was within 10 miles of this sign – too rugged an area…
There is a cool sight seeing train that goes from somewhere in Canada (maybe Whitehorse) to Skagway. Looked like fun.
View of Tutshi Lake again

The drive was as wonderful in the opposite direction.  We were surprised to still see smoke coming from the hills across the Windy Arm of Takisha Lake.  We got up to a town called Carcross and hung a right to work our way east.  The goal was to go east for a bit and then turn south and go another 60 miles to a town called Atlin in British Columbia.  It’s on the shore of a huge lake and is supposed to be pretty neat.  You have to go out the way you came in (kinda like Skagway but without the cruise ship harbor), so it’s not visited by many tourists.

The 60 mile drive south was pretty routine.  We’d occasionally catch a glimpse of the lake (which was really neat with mountains rising steeply on the opposite shore), but the road had lots of growth on both sides and views were limited.  

The forest fire was still burning as we headed by it again. We heard a few days later that they may close the road to Skagway because of it.
Forest Fire still burning on windy arm.
View of Tagish Lake near Tagish
View we got of mountain near Little Atlin Lake after Chuck took a dirt road to find the view
This is the dirt road Chuck turned down so that we could see the view of the Little Atlin lake. Driving down the highway was like driving in a tunnel of trees.
Our campsite on Atlin Lake. View of glaciers in the distance.
Someone in Atlin decorated their yard with old snow- machines

Atlin turned out to be a bit smaller than expected.  Getting there mid day Sunday didn’t help the feeling that no-one lived there…. We found the RV Park that was on the shore of the lake, all ten sites in a gravel lot.  The “facilities” was a porta-potti at one end of the lot.  What it lacked in ambiance it made up for in views however.  We got a spot on a small peninsula that look out across the lake.  The wind was blowing and the sky mostly cloudy, but it was a neat place to sit and relax.  And dry, despite the threatening clouds, it stayed dry…

We’ve been lucky the past week and have been mostly mosquito free.  Much of our Whitehorse stay was at the Ford Dealer in town, Skagway was on the ocean, and for some reason Atlin Lake has been light on bugs.  We started our trip to Alaska with one can of bug spray that we bought when the boys played summer soccer (yeah, THAT long ago).  We now have four cans of bug spray stashed so there’s always one where you can get to it quickly.  Those buggers can turn a fabulous scenic view into misery pretty darn quick!!!   We’re doing our part to thin the herd though, the coating on the front of the truck and camper is building up as a warning to the others that we will show NO mercy